A Personal Perspective on Salvador, Brazil

A Personal Perspective on Salvador, Brazil

Despite being Brazilian and having visited Salvador many times—both for work and leisure—I must confess: I don't have a particular fondness for the city. Salvador is not especially welcoming. There's a persistent sense of disorder and insecurity around every corner. The urban decay is evident, and public maintenance appears neglected.

Still, if you want to deeply understand the soul of the Brazilian people, Salvador deserves a place on your itinerary. As Brazil’s first capital, it carries the spirit of beginnings—of a nation brimming with potential that has, over centuries, been hindered by mediocre governance.

Why Tourists Flock to Pelourinho

Colonial architecture is one of Salvador’s most attractive features. Pelourinho—or “Pelô” as locals call it—lies at the heart of the Historic Center. It boasts colorful baroque mansions, monumental churches, and cobblestone alleys. Since 1985, this district has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Built atop a strategic hill, Pelourinho was the political, religious, and residential hub of colonial elites when Salvador was founded in 1549.

Cultural Vibrancy and Local Life

Today, Pelourinho is synonymous with vibrant Afro-Brazilian culture: capoeira performances, samba and reggae circles, spontaneous artistic acts, and Olodum’s rehearsals bring the area to life—especially on Sundays and Tuesdays. On those days, the iconic percussion group performs in Pelourinho Square, reviving memories of Michael Jackson’s 1996 video shoot.

Michael Jackson in Pelourinho

The house from which Michael Jackson waved to the world in the “They Don’t Care About Us” music video still stands. A large photo of him remains on the balcony, a symbol that underscores Pelourinho’s role as a bridge between local culture and global attention.

Bahian Cuisine

Pelourinho is also a feast for the senses. Dishes like acarajé, vatapá, moqueca, and cocada—flavored with rich dendê oil—are found at both restaurants and street stalls. The neighborhood is also home to cultural landmarks like the Afro-Brazilian Museum and the Museum of the City.

Pelourinho and Brazil's Colonial Past

During colonial times, the Largo do Pelourinho featured the stone pillar where enslaved people were publicly punished. The neighborhood's name derives from this structure, a chilling symbol of imperial control and oppression. Walking its streets is walking through painful, but essential, Brazilian history.

Is Pelourinho Worth Visiting?

Most travel experts and guides agree: yes, it’s a must-see in Salvador. While some travelers express mixed feelings, the consensus is that Pelourinho offers a unique experience—especially for those interested in history, architecture, and Afro-Brazilian culture.

Safety and Where to Stay

Pelourinho is far from the safest area in Salvador. First-time visitors are advised to stay in Rio Vermelho, one of the city’s safest neighborhoods. It offers great infrastructure, lively nightlife, excellent dining, and it’s just 7 km (about 25 minutes by Uber) from Pelourinho.

Other solid options include Barra and Ondina, which offer seaside views, relatively good security, and decent access to the historic center. While public buses and the metro do reach Pelourinho, they are not recommended for unaccompanied tourists—especially at night. Stick with rideshare apps for a safer experience.

Safety Tips

• Avoid displaying valuables like jewelry, smartphones, or professional cameras.

• Stay clear of dark alleys and steep, dimly lit streets—even within Pelourinho.

• Visit during daylight and, ideally, in a group.

• Avoid nearby areas such as Lapa, Barroquinha, Avenida Sete, and Calçada Station.

• Public transport is often overcrowded and unreliable. Uber and taxis are safer choices.

Should You Attend an Olodum Rehearsal?

Absolutely! Olodum’s rehearsals are an immersive cultural experience—full of rhythm, dance, and Afro-Brazilian pride. The energy is electric, and the atmosphere is generally safe if you stick to the main squares and stay with others.

Arriving in Salvador

Salvador International Airport (SSA) receives direct flights from Europe and several cities in the Americas. The trip from the airport to Pelourinho is about 30 km and takes 30–50 minutes by car. An Uber or taxi costs between $25 and $35 USD. If staying in Rio Vermelho or Barra, the trip is slightly shorter.

Conclusion

Pelourinho is a must-visit destination in Salvador, even with the city’s urban challenges. Its history, vibrant culture, cuisine, and its connection to figures like Michael Jackson make it a unique stop. With basic safety precautions and smart lodging choices, tourists can enjoy the best Salvador has to offer.

They Don’t Care About Us: The Lasting Irony

When Michael Jackson filmed “They Don’t Care About Us” in Pelourinho in 1996, he was highlighting neglect, racism, and systemic violence. The choice of location was both poetic and provocative—and today, it resonates with haunting irony.

Nearly three decades later, Salvador remains a city of undeniable beauty—but also marked by public neglect, social inequality, and high crime. Pelourinho, once filled with hopeful rhythms and smiling children, now also sees young people exposed to violence and lack of opportunity.

The video upset authorities at the time. Today, it’s reality that unsettles us more. “They Don’t Care About Us” still speaks volumes—a portrait of what Salvador could have been, but has yet to become. Michael’s voice echoed what many still feel: that this outwardly beautiful city remains painfully forgotten inside.

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